Stolen Chimney 5.10c (5.9 A0)
Ancient Art, Fisher Towers
About the Climb
One climb stands out from the others in the muddy Fisher Towers, and after thousands of ascents, Stolen Chimney is surprisingly clean. It protects well and can be free climbed at a moderate grade, making it a very popular desert classic climb. Stolen Chimney has a little bit of everything, ranging from steep but short and well protected face climbing, a fun muddy chimney, and of course, a twisting and very exposed summit that you will remember for a long time. The experience of standing on top of the corkscrew summit is very unique and is a most-do.
The harder sections of Stolen Chimney (short, steep and bolt protected 5.10 face) can easily be aided by pulling on draws if needed, bringing the rating down to around 5.8 or 5.9. But the moderately experienced climbers should beware of some exposed and committing sections with sometimes poor pro. The fixed protection found along the way also offers a look into the past. Stolen Chimney might not be a good place to bring a scared and inexperienced climber.
Overall, Stolen Chimney is a super fun climb that offers a cool perspective of the many funky surrounding formations that make the Fisher Towers such a unique place. If you’re looking for a place to pitch the tent, the Fisher Towers campsites are a really cool and quiet place to admire these incredible rock formations, and the hiking trail on its own is worth a visit. The camping space is limited, there is a toilet but no water.
If you're looking for more climbing at a similar grade around the Fisher Towers, combine Stolen Chimney with these single pitch routes to complete your day: The Cobra (5.11a) is a short tower that is encountered on the approach to Ancient Art. It can be easily climbed before or after Stolen Chimney, and offers a very exciting and exposed tiny summit. Lizard Rock, is another popular short tower located near the parking lot. Entry Fee (5.8R) is on the right side, while the bolts on the left are the Leapin Lizards (5.10aR) variation.
While nothing truly compares to the unique rock found in the Fisher Towers, these other routes are similar to Stolen Chimney in grade and length: Check out the friendly South Face (5.7) of the South Six Shooter Peak in Indian Creek. With 2 distinct summits and a variety of moderate climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.10, this tower has something to offer to everyone. Kor-Ingalls (5.9), North Chimney (5.9-) and Walden's Room (5.10c or 5.9A0) also offer a great mix of chimney, face and crack climbing.