Armatron, Red Rocks Route Photo

Armatron 5.9

Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon

  • Armatron Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Armatron First AscentG. Conley, J. Newberry, J. and J. Urioste, J. Johnson
  • Armatron Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 4
  • Armatron Approach TimeApproach Time: 1½-2 hours
  • Armatron Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 2-3 hours
  • Armatron Descent timeDescent Time: ¾-1 hour to base
  • Armatron Sun ExposureSun exposure: Sunrise until mid-afternoon

    • About the Climb

    Armatron is a one of a kind new route with two full pitches of climbing on tiles of varnish. It is simply amazing. If the route wasn't located on the Brownstone wall, there would be lines from sunrise until sunset!

    The climbing is mostly face climbing on varnish, combined with a little bit of crack climbing. The first 2 pitches have 5.8 climbing, with only a short 5.9 section that is protected by a bolt. The top pitches are filled with awesome and sustained 5.6 climbing on tile-shaped varnish for two rope lengths.

    From the Brownstone Wall the views of the Rainbow Wall and the rest of Red Rocks are amazing, and definitively worth the longer approach. An enjoyable way to reach Armatron, and avoid the 1.5-2 hour walk in, is to climb Myster Z (5.7). After topping out on Myster Z, it takes only about 10 minutes to reach Armatron.

    Note that as of spring 2007, there was a loose block just above the bolt on the second pitch. This block is above your belayer, so you really don't want to pull it off! Pay attention!

    Armatron (Red Rocks) GearLoopTopo {Armatron (Red Rocks) GearLoopTopo

    Low Resolution GearLoopTopo Preview

    Minimum order of 3 GearLoopTopos

    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Armatron contains all the information you need for the climb, starting from the Pine Creek Parking. This parking is located near the end of the scenic drive. The described approach follows the main Pine Creek Canyon trail, but a shortcut through the Fire Loop Ecology trail is also possible.

    In addition to the topo for Armaton, our GearLoopTopo also shows the topo for Myster Z (5.7) in case you want to climb this route to get to the Brownstone Wall.

    Possible Combinations

    The best option for a full day of climbing is to start with Myster Z (5.7) to get to the Brownstone Wall. If you prefer to hike to the Brownstone Wall and want to extend your day there, you can climb one of the classics like Black Dagger (5.7) or The Nightcrawler (5.10b). A great combo is to warm-up with Armatron and finish with the amazing corner system of The Nightcrawler.

    Black Dagger (5.7) goes all the way to the top of the Brownstone Wall, and does not have any fixed belays. If you plan to combine Black Dagger and Armatron, it might be best to start on Black Dagger and finish the day on Armatron. Because the belay station on Armatron are equipped for rappel, it is easy to retreat in case you run out of daylight or energy.

    Similar Climbs

    There are no other climbs in Red Rocks with such sustained varnish climbing. The only route that somewhat comes close to Armatron is Going Nuts (5.6). This route starts on the Solar Slab ledge and makes an excellent alternative start to the popular Solar Slab (5.6).

    Armatron and Juniper Canyon, Red Rocks Back to Red Rocks overview

    1. Power Failure (5.10b)
    2. Unimpeachable Groping (10b)
    3. Ginger Cracks (5.9)
    4. Crimson Chrysalis (5.8)
    5. Black Dagger (5.7+)
    6. Nightcrawler (5.10c)
    7. Armatron (5.9)
    8. Myster Z (5.7)
    9. Geronimo (5.6)
    10. Olive Oil (5.7)

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    routes overview

    Download the Armatron PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

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