Beulahs Book 5.9
Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
About the Climb
Beulah's Book is an excellent short classic on the lower tier of the Solar Slab Wall and provides an awesome start to Solar Slab (5.6). Although short, it showcases a great mix of face, chimney and crack climbing.
Beulah's Book is located right next to Johnny Vegas (5.7), which is an even more popular start to Solar Slab. It is a good alternative if Johnny Vegas is too crowded.
The chimney on the second pitch is the highlight of Beulah's Book and is excellent practice if you want to do Epinephrine (5.9). If you don't like chimneys, there is also a very nice bolted face variation that avoids the chimney. After the face variation you get back onto the main route just in time for some amazing and steep laybacking. The last pitch has some easier, but a bit runout, face climbing.
The route finishes on the right side of the Solar Slab ledge. To descent you can rappel down Johnny Vegas (5.7) or down the Solar Slab Gully (5.3). If there are climbers on Johnny Vegas, it is best to rappel down Solar Slab Gully. The Gully can become in waterfall in case it rain, so be careful in case of inclement weather.
The most logical combination is to keep going on Solar Slab (5.6) after Beulah's Book. However, Solar Slab is a very popular route, so it might be busy. If Solar Slab is busy, it's possible to bypass by climbing Going Nuts (5.6), a fun two pitch climb from which you can reach the second belay of Solar Slab. If you don't want to go to the top of the Solar Slab Wall, you can climb the 2 pitches of Going Nuts. traverse right to Solar Slab, and then rap down back to the Solar Slab Ledge.
If you don't want to climb a route on the upper tier, but still want to extend your day, check out the also popular Johnny Vegas (5.7) which is just to the right of Beulah's Book.
Johnny Vegas (5.7) is a similar climb in length, but it doesn't have a chimney section. Another climb of similar length and difficulty is Refried Brains (5.9) in Black Velvet Canyon. It has a superb crux pitch up a really good crack.
Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+) in Icebox Canyon is also similar in grade, but is significantly longer. It has a nice big ledge at almost every belay, and deserves to be climbed more. Despite its name, the route can get hot.
If you liked the chimney section and want more of that, go for the super classic Epinephrine (5.9). It has 3 fantastic pitches of 5.9 chimney in a row. Note that this is a much longer and more committing climb than Beulah's Book.