Lotta Balls 5.8
Includes Black Magic (5.8) and Bruja's Brew (5.9)
Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon
About the Climb
Lotta Balls (5.8) is a memorable and fun moderate climb up cracks and a short face. It gets its name from the knobs sticking out on the second pitch face climbing crux. Although it's short, all the pitches are excellent and it is very enjoyable. Lotta Balls is located at the entrance of First Creek Canyon, so you don't have to drive around the loop, which might be a welcome change after you have climbed in Red Rocks for a while. Lotta Balls Wall has 2 nice neighboring climbs which provide enough options to fill your day with more great climbing.
Black Magic (5.8) is not as famous as Lotta Balls (5.8), but the climbing is just as good. It's super fun from bottom to top and it has nice exposure. When looking at it from below, it's hard to imagine that the climbing is only 5.8, but as you climb up hidden features will appear.
Bruja's Brew is probably the least known roue on the Lotta Balls Wall, but it is an excellent route nonetheless. While it only has one 5.9 pitch, it still has some interesting climbing on every pitch. The first pitch is the best and is spicy for the grade, the second is easier but a bit runout, and the last has an interesting zig zag traverse through the roofs.
You can easily combine any of the routes above into a full, and varied, day of climbing. However, there are also other options to extend your day in the First Creek Canyon.
Located just on the other side of the bowl is another nice short climb : Rising Moons (5.5R). Although it is an easier route, the climbing will keep your attention from start to finish because of the limited pro options. But don't let this scare you away, the climbing is super fun and feels pretty secure.
In addition to the short multipitch routes, the walls surrounding the bowl have many great single pitch climbs too.
Lotta Balls is a unique route, and unfortunately there are no similar routes in Red Rocks.
If you are looking for climbs with great varnish, like Black Magic, check out the amazing Armatron (5.9) or the short but fun Going Nuts (5.6). Birdland (5.7+) in Pine Creek Canyon also have some nice varnish climbing.
If you are looking for something a little bit harder you should check out Refried Brains (5.9) in Black Velvet Canyon, which has a great mix of face and crack climbing. For a longer climb you can go for Ginger Cracks (5.9) in Juniper Canyon, which is mainly 5.8 climbing with a short, bolt protected 5.9 move.