Calculus Crack 5.8
Apron, The Chief
About the Climb
Calculus Crack is one of the easiest crack climbs on the Apron, and one of the easiest multi-pitch crack climbs in Squamish (together with Banana Peel). The route starts from the top of the second pitch on Saint Vitus' Dance (5.9) and climbs a low-angle wide crack that protects well, even with smaller gear. This wide crack is followed by a short crux finger crack section which takes nuts very well. The route then follows the complete left edge of the Apron up to the Broadway Ledge.
Calculus Crack is a great practice route for the wider cracks on Saint Vitus' Dance (5.9) or Vector (5.9). It is also a good alternative if those climbs are too crowded.
The first two pitches of Saint Vitus' Dance that you need to climb to get onto Calculus Crack can be wet from seepage after periods of rain. However, they protect well. The pitches on Calculus Crack itself dry quickly after the rain.
From the end of Calculus Crack, there are many options if you want to add one or more pitches to your day. You can climb Dessert Dyke (5.10a), a one pitch route that tops out on the Broadway Ledge. Climbing this route means that you'll avoid the scrambling required to reach the Broadway Ledge. Another great short climb is Karen's Math (5.10b), which starts a few feet from the start of the 3rd class gully. The route climbs an amazing superthin flake and ends at the Memorial Ledge. From the Memorial Ledge you can climb Memorial Crack (5.9) to add yet another pitch. Memorial Crack can also be reached by scrambling up the 3rd class gully, and moving left onto Memorial Ledge just as you reach Broadway.
From the top of Memorial Crack, you can continue up on slabs and through trees to reach either Squamish Buttress (5.10c) or Ultimate Everything (5.10b) and climb all the way to the top of the Chief. If you want to go to the summit of the Chief, but there is a line to get onto Memorial Crack, you can move left along Broadway and climb Boomstick Crack (5.7) in order to continue up to the upper routes.
Another option to climb several additional pitches is the Upper Apron. If you descend along the Broadway Ledge towards the forest, you will pass directly below the Upper Apron, which has several spicy slab routes. The sparse protection on these routes will surely test your slab climbing skills.
Saint Vitus' Dance (5.9) and Vector (5.9) have similar wide cracks, although they are steeper and a bit more difficult. As on Calculus Crack, these wide cracks protect quite well, even with smaller gear.