Grand Wall 5.11a A0
Grand Wall, The Chief
About the Climb
The Grand Wall is probably the best known Squamish classic route. It features great exposure and excellent climbing up the Chief's Grand Wall. With pitch after pitch of superb climbing on perfect granite, this quality classic is hard to beat.
The easiest way to approach this route is to first climb the lower-angle dykes of Mercy Me, which are easy, but runout. Once you reach the Split Pillar (5.10b) the wall steepens, and the climbing gets more pumpy. After the famous Sword pitch, you pass a bolt-ladder to reach Perry's Layback. From the top of Perry's Layback, the climbing becomes a little bit easier. Once you have reached the top of the climb, don't unrope yet, because you still have to traverse along the exposed Bellygood Ledge to reach the descent trail.
The Grand Wall comes into the sun after the late morning hours, and can get quite hot. Make sure to stay hydrated, start early or bring lots of water.
Other options also exist to reach the start of this climb. The easiest way is by using the Flake Escape Ledges, which countours around on the left, and traverses back right over the Flake to the base of the route. Alternatively, you can also climb Apron Strings (5.10b) on the right side of the Flake to reach the dyke at the start of the Grand Wall. Another option is to climb the excellent slabs of Cruel Shoes (5.10d), and follow this route to the base of the Split Pillar, and continue on the Grand Wall from there.
It is not easy to find other routes of the same classic status with such a number of consecutive quality pitches as the Grand Wall. However, if you are simply looking for great routes that will take you to the top of the Chief, try one of the following routes: Squamish Buttress (5.10c), Ultimate Everything (5.10b), or Angel's Crest (5.10c).