Squamish Buttress 5.10c
Squamish Buttress, The Chief
About the Climb
The Squamish Buttress weaves its way to the top of the Chief, starting just above the Broadway Ledge. Except for the crux pitch, the climbing is not very sustained and mostly easier than 5.8. The reason to climb this route is a superb finger layback corner (5.10c), which is quite sustained, takes good gear and can be aided if necessary.
Because the Squamish Buttress starts above the Broadway ledge, you either have to climb a route on the Apron, or hike up the Apron descent trail (fastest option). Once on the Broadway Ledge, you still have to climb a single pitch route, and continue a little upward on slabs and through trees to get to the start.
The best way to get to the Broadway Ledge is to climb a route on the Apron, which has a high density of routes, so there are plenty of options to choose from. To maximize the number of pitches, you can start all the way from the base of the Apron on The Bottom Line (5.9). This is is a short slab route that starts directly from the trail along the base of the Apron, and finishes on the right end of the Diedre Ledge. From the Diedre Ledge you can continue on many routes, the most classic being Diedre (5.8) and Banana Peel (5.8). After arriving on the Broadway Ledge, you can continue directly onto Boomstick Crack (5.7) for 1 or 2 pitches. From the top of the Boomstick Crack you hike through trees and on slabs to the start of the route.
If you climb routes on the north side of the Apron (Snake (5.9), Saint Vitus' Dance (5.9), Vector (5.9), or Calculus Crack (5.8)), your best option is to climb Memorial Crack (5.9) afterwards to get above Broadway.
Another great alternative is to climb Rock On (5.10a), which starts in the North Gully just north of the Apron. Rock On has superb laybacking, warming you up for the crux pitch on The Squamish Buttress. After topping out on Rock On, the start of The Squamish Buttress is only a short hike away.
The Squamish Buttress finishes just below the summit of the Chief. From there you can either go up easy slabs trough trees, or climb Joe's Dyke (recommended) to the actual top of the Chief.
The Ultimate Everything (5.10b) is similar to The Squamish Buttress in the sense that it also starts above the Broadway Ledge, and goes all the way to the top of the Chief.