Hobbit Book 5.7R
Includes Seconds to Darkness (5.8) and Mmmm...Crackahol (5.9/5.10a)
About the Climb
Hobbit Book is a really fun route with fantastic views, excellent rock, and varied climbing. This 5 star route sits high above Drug Dome, and ascends a huge crescent shaped corner system splitting Mariuolumne Dome. The route is pretty sustained at the grade, with 3 of the 4 pitches containing 5.7 sections, and it requires a long and strenuous approach as well as a long descent, making it a full day affair for many.
The golden colored granite found on the upper face is very featured and provides fantastic face climbing on amazing holds. The climbing is exposed, steep and airy. The route mostly follows a corner which provides solid protection and long, continuous pitches. However, a mandatory classic runout on an amazing face with golden patina and incut holds must be negociated on the 3rd pitch in order to avoid the OW corner. Although there is a good bolt protecting the face, you still have to head straight up above it for about 70 feet with no pro (some try to sling some knobs) before you can reach the safety of the dihedral. However, if you have experience on Tuolumne runout face climbs of similar grade, you will feel that this section provides enough solid incut holds to make it feel comfortable. Just take it easy and go one move at a time!
A great way to break down the long approach is to first climb a route located along the way, such as OZ (5.10d), or On The Lamb (5.9). Even better, try the triple combination by first climbing On The Lamb (5.9), then OZ, then Hobbit Book. Now this is a full day!
If you have some time and energy left after climbing Hobbit Book, you should check out the single pitch routes located along the descent. Seconds to Darkness (5.8) and Mmmm...Crakahol (5.9/5.10a) are included on our GearLoopTopo, and offer really fun crack climbing to round-out your day.