Lucky Streaks 5.10d
About the Climb
Lucky Streaks is a high-quality route that should not be missed by the 5.10 climber. The climbing is fairly sustained at around 5.9, with a short crux, varied climbing, long pitches and good pro (except for a short section on the first pitch). Although it looks very steep and intimidating from the base, a multitude of knobs seem to appear just where you need them. The route has many hanging and uncomfortable belays, so be ready to suffer a bit!
The protection is excellent throughout, and many crack sections take nuts especially well, so bring a good assortment of nuts and draws to clip them. The 5.10d section on the 3rd pitch is very short and demands delicate climbing. The rest of the route consists of lots of 5.8 and 5.9 crack climbing with a few short 5.10 sections. Avoid the 5.9 variation on the 5th pitch, as a large detached flake poses a hazard. The climb can be done in 5 pitches if the 1st pitch is stretched to full 60m.
Many other high quality routes exist on Fairview Dome and would make a perfect combination. Of course, combining with Regular Route (5.9) would make an exceptional day. Other less traveled routes to consider after or before climbing Lucky Streaks include Great Pumpkin (5.8R) and Roseanne (5.9R), both conveniently located just a few feet to the right.