Lucky Streaks, Tuolumne Route Photo

Lucky Streaks 5.10d

Fairview Dome

  • Lucky Streaks Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Lucky Streaks First AscentBob Kamps and Tom Higgins, July 1967
  • Lucky Streaks Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 6
  • Lucky Streaks Approach TimeApproach Time: 15-20 minutes
  • Lucky Streaks Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 3-5 hours
  • Lucky Streaks Descent timeDescent Time: 30-40 minutes
  • Lucky Streaks Sun ExposureSun exposure: Afternoon until sunset
  • About the Climb

    Lucky Streaks is a high-quality route that should not be missed by the 5.10 climber. The climbing is fairly sustained at around 5.9, with a short crux, varied climbing, long pitches and good pro (except for a short section on the first pitch). Although it looks very steep and intimidating from the base, a multitude of knobs seem to appear just where you need them. The route has many hanging and uncomfortable belays, so be ready to suffer a bit!

    The protection is excellent throughout, and many crack sections take nuts especially well, so bring a good assortment of nuts and draws to clip them. The 5.10d section on the 3rd pitch is very short and demands delicate climbing. The rest of the route consists of lots of 5.8 and 5.9 crack climbing with a few short 5.10 sections. Avoid the 5.9 variation on the 5th pitch, as a large detached flake poses a hazard. The climb can be done in 5 pitches if the 1st pitch is stretched to full 60m.

    Lucky Streaks (Tuolumne) GearLoopTopo {Lucky Streaks (Tuolumne) GearLoopTopo

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    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Lucky Streaks includes all the information you need for the climb, with directions starting from the Tuolumne campground.

    Possible Combinations

    Many other high quality routes exist on Fairview Dome and would make a perfect combination. Of course, combining with Regular Route (5.9) would make an exceptional day. Other less traveled routes to consider after or before climbing Lucky Streaks include Great Pumpkin (5.8R) and Roseanne (5.9R), both conveniently located just a few feet to the right.

    Similar Climbs

    Other great routes at a similar grade include Direct Northwest Face (5.10c), Crest Jewel Direct (5.10d), OZ (5.10d), and Gram Traverse (5.10d).

    Download the Lucky Streaks PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

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