On The Lamb 5.9
Includes Little Sheba (5.10a), Jailbreak (5.9), and Sleeper Finish (5.9R)
About the Climb
On the Lamb is a super fun and unusual route because it actually traverses more than it goes up, and it feels a bit bizarre to climb horizontally for 4 pitches. This route is totally unique and like no other.
On the Lamb offers 400ft of really good exposure along a unique horizontal dike/crack, providing unique juggy holds and very good protection. There is only a short section of 5.9 on the route, and the trick is to keep moving. If you place too much pro on the traverse where the foot holds disappear, you’ll get pumped. Remember that the route will feel as hard for the follower as for the leader, so make sure that both climbers are solid on 5.9 terrain. A fun way to do this route is to reverse it after you climbed it, because it is possible to climb it from right to left, or from left to right.
Jailbreak (5.9) is a new bolted variation that offers a great way to finish On the Lamb. The great thing with this route is that it actually takes you up to the summit of Lamb Dome. It also adds a couple of quality pitches to an already great climb, and feels good to finally climb up after all that traversing! Instead of simply traversing to the end of the crack, Jailbreak heads up on a fun bolted face with just enough knobs and a long diagonal dike.
Although it’s not runout, Jailbreak is bolted in Tuolumne style, and bolts are found where they are needed. Bolts and anchors are new, the rock is really good, and it offers excellent exposure on cool knobs and dikes. This is definitely a must do finish and the way to go if you'll be climbing On the Lamb!
Sleeper (5.9R) is another route on Lamb Dome that intersects On the Lamb. The top pitches have recently been re-bolted, and they offer a great finish variation up a runout slab taking you up to the summit of the Dome.
In addition to the Jailbreak and Sleeper variations, Lamb Dome also offers the excellent single pitch route Little Sheba (5.10a). This is one of the best cracks in Tuolumne at the grade and it's a great route to warm-up while on the approach, or just climb it at the end of the day.
Another great combination is to start your day with On the Lamb, and combine it with OZ (5.10d), which is located on Drug Dome, right behind Lamb Dome. Mariuolumne Dome is also located just above Lamb Dome, and Hobbit Book also makes for a great combination. Combining these three routes in a day would really make for a fantastic crack climbing day with almost 15 pitches!
For other great routes with a mix of slab and cracks at a similar grade, check out Aqua Knobby (5.9), Cooke Book (5.10a), Roseanne (5.9R), Regular Route (5.9) on Fairview Dome, Blown Away (5.9), and West Crack (5.9).