Doggystyle, Wasatch Range Route Photo

Doggystyle 5.10c & Sumatra 5.10b

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon

  • Doggystyle Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Doggystyle First AscentT. Phillips, L. Douglas, 2005 (Doggystyle)
  • Doggystyle Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 4
  • Doggystyle Approach TimeApproach Time: 15-20 minutes
  • Doggystyle Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 2-3 hours
  • Doggystyle Descent timeDescent Time: 30-45 min to base
  • Doggystyle Sun ExposureSun exposure: Shade most of the day
  • About the Climb

    Doggystyle and Sumatra are two fun new routes that were put up in 2005 offering a nice sense of adventure and variety.

    Doggystyle is a nice, very enjoyable cruise up mostly well protected slabs, with the occasional flake and crack. The route wanders a bit, and feels more like a 5.9 route with a few 5.10 slab moves that are very well protected. There is some loose rock on the route and on the ledges, but it should clean up nicely. The 1st and 3rd pitches are very nice, offering exciting slab moves and a great hand crack and roof. The route has a good mix of gear and bolts, so only a small rack is needed. The 3rd pitch 5.11- variation is very good, and can easily be toproped or lead on the way down. This way you don’t miss the equally good original 3rd pitch.

    Sumatra is located just to the right of Doggystyle. It features a very fun slab and dike section on the 3rd pitch. Both the 1st and 3rd pitches are really fun, with clean rock and excellent climbing. However, pitches 2 and 4 are lower angle and a little more dirty. The rock and pro are mostly good and the moves and position are excellent.

    CAUTION: These are relatively new routes, and there is still some loose rock. Be extremely careful with loose blocks, as rockfall potential is a real issue in this area. If a party is already on the route, consider something else and avoid hanging out at the base.

    Doggystyle (Wasatch Range) GearLoopTopo {Doggystyle (Wasatch Range) GearLoopTopo

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    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Doggystyle and Sumatra contains all the information you need for the climb, starting from Little Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake City.

    Possible Combinations

    Once at the top of Doggystyle or Sumatra, two main options are possible if you want to keep climbing and continue up another route. If you go left, and join into pitch 4 of Stiffler's Mom (5.11a), you'll have a great linkup, but it would be a shame not to climb the bottom pitches of this stellar route. Alternatively, continue up and right into the last 3 pitches of Precious Lost (5.10a).

    If you decide to descend back to the base, Doggystyle and Sumatra can easily be climbed back to back, making it an all day affair. If you are looking for something a little bit harder, and you are a fast climber, the closest route is Stiffler's Mom (5.11a), which is located a few feet to the left. This is an excellent climb that should not be missed. If you are looking for an easier route, walk to the west and get on Pentapitch, which offers several options (Sasquatch 5.9 is a classic) and gets a lot of late afternoon sun.

    Similar Climbs

    For other great long routes at a similar grade, try Precious Lost (5.10a), which shares it start with Sumatra, and then heads right. If you want to get out of the heat, then head up to Alta and climb the Black Streak (5.10b) or Horns of Satan (5.10b). If you make it to Lone Peak Cirque, make sure to try Triple Overhangs (5.10a) or Vertical Smile (5.10a), which are both excellent.

    Download the Doggystyle PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

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