Outside Corner 5.7
Includes Second East Face (5.7)
JHCOB Wall, Big Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
Outside Corner is a great and varied half-day climb, with a super quick approach, comfy belays, and a straightforward descent. The route goes up an imposing arête and is easily seen as you drive up Big Cottonwood road.
Outside Corner might feel a little spicy for some at the grade. It definitely has a few committing and airy moves, and provides big exposure for a 5.7. Although each pitch has some fun sections, the last pitch is the best. It is steep and sustained, with exciting and consistently exposed climbing leading to the very top.
Second East Face is another great little climb for the moderate climber. It doesn’t look too inspiring from a distance, but once on the route you’ll see what you came for. This route has a lot of clean thin hands and finger cracks on perfect quartzite, and also has abundant and positive face holds. Keep your cool on the hard to protect face on the last pitch... If you liked the feeling and the exposure of the arête pitch on Steort’s Ridge (5.6), you’ll like this route. All the belays are comfortable, and the views of Big Cottonwood Canyon are wonderful. Second East Face gets a lot of sun in the morning and lots of shade in the afternoon, and it’s a good alternative if Outside Corner is busy.
The rock in Big Cottonwood Canyon is quartzite, and while it offers a multitude of parallel crack systems and tons of small edges, protection can be a little tricky to place in sections, and some sections on these routes might feel a little runout. Small size nuts and cams are useful. Some loose rock might also be encountered, so helmets are advised.
Combine Second East Face with Outside Corner for a full day of quality 5.7 quartzite climbing. Note that while both routes are located very close to each other, they require a different approach due to a very loose scree slope.
For a full day of moderate quality climbing, combine Second East Face or Outside Corner with the Steort’s Ridge area routes. Steort's Ridge (5.6), Jig's Up (5.6) and East Dihedrals (5.6) are located just up the road, and offer easier and shorter multipitch routes.
If you are looking for other great moderate multipitch routes, head up to Lone Peak Cirque and try The Open Book (5.7) or the Lowe Route (5.8). Other good options at a similar grade are Schoolroom West (5.7), or the long classic Standard Thumb (5.7). Good routes at a slightly harder grade include Pentapitch (5.8), Tingey's Terror and Torture (5.8), and Eleventh Hour (5.8).