East Face Route 5.10d
Sunflower Tower (Bridger Jack), Indian Creek
About the Climb
The Bridger Jacks are a group of relatively short spires in the heart of Indian Creek. If you get tired of cragging at Indian Creek, want to get away from the crowds and are looking for a little more adventure to the top of a tower, then these towers are for you. This is also a great spot to camp if you’ll be in Indian Creek for a few days. These spires offer a relatively moderate and quick approach, as well as several quality short summit climbs. It is easy to climb multiple towers in a day because of the easy access. The rock is excellent, the views are great and the climbing can feel very different from one climb to another.
East Face Route is located on Sunflower Tower, the tower just right of Easter Island. It is another classic climb and is definetely one of the best routes on the Bridger Jacks. East Face Route is a very fun climb, offering a lot of variety in three pitches with awesome and aesthetic climbing the whole way. The start feels a bit awkward, but you're soon rewarded with a cool stembox and great jams. The second pitch is what you came for: it ascends an awesome left facing dihedral that is super fun but quite sustained, going from perfect hands to small hands and finishing with fingers and liebacks. Although easier, the last pitch will require your attention with some ancient fixed protection, an exposed traverse and sandier rock.
Getting to the base of the Bridger Jacks requires driving on a dirt road that can be rough in sections, depending on the conditions. Most 2WD cars will be OK, but a high clearance 4x4 can help. Camping at the base of the Bridger Jacks is very convenient and will offer the easiest access to East Face Route, as well as incredible views of Indian Creek. Sites are first come first serve, and no toilets or water are available. Please use Wag Bags (donation box or bring your own) and pack out everything with you.
Once up at the base of the Bridger Jacks, it's easy to climb other quality routes that are just a few minutes away. Combine East Face Route with one or all of these climbs Learning To Crawl (5.11b), Sparkling Touch (5.11a) or Thunderbolts (5.10b) for a full day of summit bagging.
If you're looking for a more sustained climb, you should get on Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11b), located on the North Six Shooter. It is a longer, more sustained route and features incredibly good crack climbing. Other nice climbs at a similar grade include Jah Man (5.10c), Fine Jade (5.11a) and In Search Of Suds (5.11a).