GearLoopTopos in the Wasatch Range Collection

Middle Bell Tower, Bells CanyonArm and Hammer 5.11c (5.10a A0)

This is an amazing route that shouldn’t be missed. The highlight on Arm and Hammer might be the famous "Zion Curtain" pitch, a spectacular thin flake hanging in the middle of a huge slab, but it has a lot more to offer than just that.

Devil's Castle, Little Cottonwood CanyonBlack Streak 5.10b

The Black Streak is a classic alpine route that is super fun, mostly bolted, and located in one of the most pristine areas of the Wasatch. Great place to climb when it’s too hot everywhere else.

South Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueCenter Thumb 5.9

The Center Thumb route links weaknesses and ascends crack systems shooting straight up the middle of a pillar formation in the heart of the Cirque. It is one of the best 5.9 routes in the Wasatch.

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonDoggystyle 5.10c & Sumatra 5.10b

These 2 new routes were put up in 2005 and are worth checking out if you have climbed most other routes in the area. The climbing is varied and enjoyable, and takes you up mostly well protected slabs with the occasional flake, dike and crack.

Sundial Peak, Big Cottonwood CanyonEleventh Hour 5.8

Eleventh Hour is one of the best moderate alpine routes in the Wasatch. It requires a relatively long approach, but offers great climbing in an amazing alpine setting. Expect killer exposure, tricky protection, and cool mountain views.

Devil's Castle, Little Cottonwood CanyonHorns of Satan 5.10b

Horns of Satan is a fun alpine climb located in the heart of Alta ski area. Mostly bolted, great position, and superb exposure on the 7th pitch makes this one a perfect outing on a hot summer day.

Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak CirqueLowe Route 5.8

The Lowe Route is an ultra classic climb, and a must-do if it’s your first time in the Cirque. It is certainly the best 5.8 in the cirque, and possibly the Wasatch. Superb crack climbing, remarkable exposure and a hard to beat top-out!

Includes: The Answer (5.8) and Pika Paradise (5.8)

Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueThe Open Book 5.7

This is Lone Peak’s easiest route. It follows a long continuous corner and ascends flared cracks that can feel a bit awkward at times. The climbing is fun and varied, and remains fairly sustained throughout.

JHCOB Wall, Big Cottonwood CanyonOutside Corner 5.7

This varied climb has a super quick approach, comfy belays, and a straightforward descent. Very popular, it can feel a little spicy for the grade, with a few committing moves and big exposure for the grade.

Includes: Second East Face (5.7)

Pentapitch Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonPentapitch 5.8

Pentapitch is a Little Cottonwood classic moderate climb featuring mostly thin finger cracks and slabs on perfect, clean rock. The exciting last pitch is not to be missed, with its committing moves and great exposure!

Includes: Sasquatch (5.9+), Japanese Terraces (5.8), and variations up to 5.11a

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonPrecious Lost 5.10a & Sumatra 5.10b

Precious Lost is a fun new adventurous route featuring several great slab sections, an ever-widening crack pitch, a roof crux, and an exposed finish over wild flakes.

Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonSchoolroom 5.6

Schoolroom is a very popular moderate climb with an old-school feel. It’s also a first multi-pitch lead for many aspiring trad climbers. The rock is solid, the pro is mostly good, and the belay ledges are comfortable.

Includes: Schoolroom West (5.7), Bushwhack Crack (5.8), and variations up to 5.9

The Thumb, Little Cottonwood CanyonS-Crack to S-direct 5.12a (5.8 C1)

These routes tackle the best sections of rock on the formation, and offer long and continuously exposed climbing. A LCC classic not to be missed!

Includes: Indecent Exposure (5.7), Spring Fever (5.10a), and Nob Job (5.10dR)

The Thumb, Little Cottonwood CanyonStandard Thumb 5.7

The Thumb is the biggest buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and offers many possibilities and variations. This route follows chimney systems and slabs up to an amazing summit block, and is one of the longest routes in the canyon.

Includes: Indecent Exposure (5.7) to Standard Thumb finish (5.7)

Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood CanyonSteort's Ridge 5.6

This is a great area for beginner and low level trad climbers. It is the site of choice if you want to bring someone on their first multi-pitch climb, or if you want to lead your first multi-pitch trad route!

Includes: Jig's Up (5.6) and East Dihedrals (5.6)

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonStiffler's Mom 5.11a

This neo-classic is one of the best multi-pitch climbs in LCC. Stiffler's Mom is a superb mix route that requires a wide variety of climbing styles. Expect fun technical slabs, sweet finger and hand cracks, cool arêtes and an exciting pumpy roof.

Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonTingey's Terror 5.7 & Tingey's Torture 5.8

The combination of these two routes offers very interesting and varied climbing. You’ll encounter smooth slabs, continuous finger cracks, and a few runouts that will keep you focused. Every pitch feels different and many variations are possible.

Includes: Tingey's Terror (5.7) and Tingey's Torture (5.8)

Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueTriple Overhangs 5.10a & Vertical Smile 5.10a

Both of these fantastic routes follow cracks and corners up to an amazing summit. The roofs on Triple Overhangs will deliver amazing exposure, while Vertical Smile is more committing, with technical climbing and challenging thin stemming.

Mount OlympusWest Slabs 5.5

The West Slabs are located on Mount Olympus, an impressive peak just above Salt Lake City. This climb takes the center of the huge face and provides one of the longest moderate adventures found in the Wasatch.