Includes Sasquatch (5.9+), Japanese Terraces (5.8), and variations up to 5.11a
Pentapitch Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
The Pentapitch area offers a quick approach, and contains several top quality routes on impeccable granite. This is a popular area on hot summer mornings because of its cool and shady aspect, and the upper section of the wall gets really nice late afternoon sun too.
Pentapitch is a classic Little Cottonwood Canyon multi-pitch route featuring mostly thin finger cracks and slabs on perfect, clean rock. Pentapitch can be climbed in as many as 5 pitches or as few as 3, depending on how you decide to climb it. The exciting last pitch won't disapoint, with its committing moves and great exposure!
The area also contains many excellent variations that can be linked or added to Pentapitch, ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. Neuromancer (5.11a), a slick and balancy bolted slab, allows for a much more technical first pitch variation. It is located just a few feet to the left of the start of Pentapitch, and is also easy to toprope from the first anchor. Japanese Terraces (5.8) follows a corner system on the left side of the face, and starts just left of the first anchor. Sasquatch, one of the best 5.9+ cracks in the Canyon, makes a superb variation to the second pitch, and is highly recommended. To reach the start of Sasquatch, simply traverse right from the top of pitch 1 to a big tree and bolted anchor, or climb it on your way down, since you'll be using the anchor located at its top to rappel. There is also a new 5.10c bolted variation on the last pitch, which is awesome and easily toproped from the last anchor. All these different variations will allow you to easily pass other parties on the way up, or add a few more pitches on the way down.
If you climb fast, or if the Petapitch area is too busy, consider climbing other multipitch routes in the area. Stiffler’s Mom (5.11a), Doggystyle (5.10b), Sumatra (5.10b) and Precious Lost (5.10a) are all located just a few minutes away. Simply follow the base of the wall heading east (left) for a couple hundred yards. On your way there, you will also pass in front of Endless Torment (5.10b), a technical 2 pitch route with spicy pro and delicate moves.