Pentapitch, Wasatch Range Route Photo

Pentapitch 5.8

Includes Sasquatch (5.9+), Japanese Terraces (5.8), and variations up to 5.11a

Pentapitch Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon

  • Pentapitch Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Pentapitch First AscentRick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963
  • Pentapitch Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 5
  • Pentapitch Approach TimeApproach Time: 15-20 minutes
  • Pentapitch Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 2-4 hours
  • Pentapitch Descent timeDescent Time: 20-40 min to base
  • Pentapitch Sun ExposureSun exposure: Afternoon sun
  • About the Climb

    The Pentapitch area offers a quick approach, and contains several top quality routes on impeccable granite. This is a popular area on hot summer mornings because of its cool and shady aspect, and the upper section of the wall gets really nice late afternoon sun too.

    Pentapitch is a classic Little Cottonwood Canyon multi-pitch route featuring mostly thin finger cracks and slabs on perfect, clean rock. Pentapitch can be climbed in as many as 5 pitches or as few as 3, depending on how you decide to climb it. The exciting last pitch won't disapoint, with its committing moves and great exposure!

    Pentapitch (Wasatch Range) GearLoopTopo {Pentapitch (Wasatch Range) GearLoopTopo

    Low Resolution GearLoopTopo Preview

    Minimum order of 3 GearLoopTopos

    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Pentapitch contains all the information you need for the climb and all the variations, starting from Little Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake City.

    Possible Combinations

    The area also contains many excellent variations that can be linked or added to Pentapitch, ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. Neuromancer (5.11a), a slick and balancy bolted slab, allows for a much more technical first pitch variation. It is located just a few feet to the left of the start of Pentapitch, and is also easy to toprope from the first anchor. Japanese Terraces (5.8) follows a corner system on the left side of the face, and starts just left of the first anchor. Sasquatch, one of the best 5.9+ cracks in the Canyon, makes a superb variation to the second pitch, and is highly recommended. To reach the start of Sasquatch, simply traverse right from the top of pitch 1 to a big tree and bolted anchor, or climb it on your way down, since you'll be using the anchor located at its top to rappel. There is also a new 5.10c bolted variation on the last pitch, which is awesome and easily toproped from the last anchor. All these different variations will allow you to easily pass other parties on the way up, or add a few more pitches on the way down.

    If you climb fast, or if the Petapitch area is too busy, consider climbing other multipitch routes in the area. Stiffler’s Mom (5.11a), Doggystyle (5.10b), Sumatra (5.10b) and Precious Lost (5.10a) are all located just a few minutes away. Simply follow the base of the wall heading east (left) for a couple hundred yards. On your way there, you will also pass in front of Endless Torment (5.10b), a technical 2 pitch route with spicy pro and delicate moves.

    Similar Climbs

    If you are looking for great long routes at a similar grade, try Center Thumb (5.9), Eleventh Hour (5.8), Lowe Route (5.8), or Tingey's Terror and Torture (5.8).

    Download the Pentapitch PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

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