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GearLoopTopos in the Tuolumne Collection
List all Individual Routes
Click on the routes below to get more info and order your GearLoopTopos
Pywiack DomeAqua Knobby 5.9
Aqua Knobby is a great little route right next to the road with fun slab and great cracks. A new bolted variation on the first pitch makes this route even better, and the steep crux and exposed knob sections above the roof are as good as it gets.
4 pitches
5 minutes
Late morning to afternoon
Daff DomeCooke Book 5.10a
Cooke Book is an old school classic with tons of excellent climbing. It is physically demanding and packed with burly liebacking, jamming and finger locks. The route is rarely crowded and stays in the shade until the afternoon.
Includes: Bombs Over Tokyo (5.10c)
6 pitches
15-20 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Daff DomeCresent Arch 5.9+
Crescent Arch is one of the best routes in Tuolumne Meadows. It follows the huge right curving dihedral splitting Daff Dome’s West Face. This route is fairly sustained and features consistent 5.9 climbing throughout as well as a very airy finish.
Includes: Witch of the West (5.9), West of the Witch (5.8), and Bombs over Tokyo (5.10c)
5 pitches
20-25 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
North DomeCrest Jewel 5.10a & Crest Jewel Direct 5.10d
Crest Jewel is an amazing bolted climb featuring pitch after pitch of stellar slab climbing on impeccable granite. The views are spectacular, and if you’re willing to endure the long approach, this might be the best long slab climb you will ever do.
10-15 pitches
2½-3½ hours
All day
Lembert DomeCrying Time Again 5.10a & Direct NW Face 5.10c
Crying Time Again follows a meandering line of weaknesses up a beautiful golden wall with steep engaging climbing. The Direct NW Face climbs a continuous crack system from bottom to top, with sustained 5.9 climbing and a short 5.10c crux.
4 pitches
15 minutes
Noon until sunset
Pywiack DomeDike Route 5.9R & Needle Spoon 5.10a
Dike Route is a classic Tuolumne runout slab route that follows a dike system on perfect granite. Needle Spoon is an overlooked slab climb that will certainly challenge your friction ability on exquisite glacier polished golden granite.
6 pitches
5 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Fairview DomeGreat Pumpkin 5.8R & Roseanne 5.9R
Great Pumpkin links up a series of flakes, corners and knobby face sections. The climbing is aesthetic and enjoyable with some exciting run-outs. Roseanne is a great route that delivers plenty of exposure and airy face climbing.
4 pitches
15-20 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Stately Pleasure DomeGreat White Book 5.6R
This huge left facing corner is the most classic moderate wide climb in Tuolumne. But don’t let the 5.6 rating fool you: the wide sections might feel awkward and slippery, and protection is sparse and can be hard to place.
5 pitches
5 minutes
Morning to afternoon
Mariuolumne DomeHobbit Book 5.7R
Hobbit Book is an excellent route with fantastic views, killer rock, lots of varied and sustained climbing, and a very exciting runout pitch. It requires a semi-long and exposed approach as well as a long descent, making it a full day affair for many.
Includes: Seconds to Darkness (5.8) and Mmmm...Crackahol (5.9/5.10a)
4 pitches
1-2 hours
Late afternoon to sunset
Fairview DomeLucky Streaks 5.10d
Lucky Streaks is a spectacular route that should not be missed by 5.10 climbers. It is a notch harder than Regular Route, and although the short crux section is easy for the grade, it will surely test your finger crack skills.
6 pitches
15-20 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Lembert DomeNorthwest Books 5.6
Northwest Books is probably the best moderate multi-pitch in Tuolumne, and it's perfect for those new to trad climbing. This route is not very sustained, but a challenging polished layback on the first pitch will demand your attention.
Includes: Beginner's Route (5.4)
3 pitches
5-10 minutes
Noon until sunset
Tenaya PeakNorthwest Buttress 5.5
This superb, long, and easy climb ascends the NW buttress of Tenaya Peak on slick, clean, and knobless white granite. The summit views of Half Dome, Mathes Crest and other domes are simply incredible. Great simul-climbing practice!
14 pitches
30-40 minutes
Mid-morning to sunset
Lamb DomeOn The Lamb 5.9
On the Lamb is extremely fun and very unusual because it actually traverses more than it goes up. This route offers 500ft of incredibly exposed climbing along a uniquely featured horizontal dike/crack. The Jailbreak finish makes it even better.
Includes: Little Sheba (5.10a), Jailbreak (5.9), and Sleeper Finish (5.9R)
4 pitches
20-30 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Drug DomeOZ 5.10d & Gram Traverse 5.10d
OZ is one of the best and most spectacular routes in Tuolume. It features a hard but well bolted steep face linking into an amazing dihedral that ends up under a huge roof. This corner is long, and features sustain laybacking and incredible stemming.
4 pitches
15-20 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Fairview DomeRegular Route 5.9
Regular Route is deservedly the most popular multi-pitch climb in Tuolumne. The route is as classic as it gets: it follows a long, continuous crack system all the way to the top, and features cracks of all sizes with excellent protection.
9 pitches
15-20 minutes
Noon until sunset
Third Pillar of Dana PlateauRegular Route 5.10a
This route is amazing. It requires a long, but very scenic approach, and packs in a wide variety of sustained and exposed climbing on very high quality granite. The last pitch is simply spectacular, and the exposure and top-out are absolutely awesome.
5 pitches
2½-3 hours
Sunrise until noon
Stately Pleasure DomeSouth Crack 5.8R
South Crack is a very popular climb mixing an exquisite blend of crack and face climbing. The first part of the route follows an absolutely beautiful finger crack, while the second half features exciting runout slabs with limited protection.
6 pitches
5 minutes
Morning to late afternoon
Cathedral PeakSoutheast Buttress 5.6
Cathedral Peak has one of the coolest summit in Tuolumne Meadows, and the Southeast Buttress offers delightful climbing on featured rock with endless variations. This is a must do classic alpine route!
Includes: North Face (5.4) of Eichorn's Pinnacle
5 pitches
1-1½ hours
Sunrise until afternoon
North DomeSouth Face 5.8
The South Face Route offers a rewarding mix of crack climbing, friction and liebacking on great rock. Because it requires a long approach, it’s a great choice if you want to stay away from the crowds and climb in a spectacular location.
8 pitches
2½-3½ hours
Most of the day
Matthes CrestSouth to North Traverse 5.7
This unusual traverse features mostly scrambling along a fantastic knife edge ridge, and contains only a few fifth class sections and a single 5.7 move. This route has a great alpine feel, and offers breathtaking views in a spectacular location.
10+ pitches
2-3 hours
Morning to late afternoon
Stately Pleasure DomeWest Country 5.7
West Country is a fun climb with a little bit of everything, including an awkward polished dihedral and a slightly runout friction slab. With such a quick approach, it’s no surprise that it’s so popular.
Includes: Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4 or 5.7) & The Boltway (5.9)
4 pitches
5 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Daff DomeWest Crack 5.9 & Blown Away 5.9
West Crack is an incredible route packed with lots of great crack climbing. The route is mostly 5.8 with a single 5.9 move at the start. Blown Away heads left after 2 pitches, and follows a beautiful knobby face to a mind-blowing overhanging corner.
Includes: Witch of the West (5.9) & West of the Witch (5.8)
5 pitches
20-25 minutes
Noon until sunset
Pywiack DomeZee Tree 5.7 & Dike Route 5.9R
Moderate difficulty and closely-spaced bolts make Zee Tree a great introduction to slab climbing in Tuolumne Meadows. On the other hand, the neighboring Dike Route is much more runout and requires a completely different mindset.
6 pitches
5 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
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