Routes on the Wasatch Range GearLoopTopos

Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak CirqueThe Answer 5.8

The Answer is a slightly more sustained variation to the Lowe Route. Great choice if you feel like clipping bolts and want a break from crack climbing, or if The Lowe Route is busy.

Middle Bell Tower, Bells CanyonArm and Hammer 5.11c (5.10a A0)

This is an amazing route that shouldn’t be missed. The highlight on Arm and Hammer might be the famous "Zion Curtain" pitch, a spectacular thin flake hanging in the middle of a huge slab, but it has a lot more to offer than just that.

Devil's Castle, Little Cottonwood CanyonBlack Streak 5.10b

The Black Streak is a classic alpine route that is super fun, mostly bolted, and located in one of the most pristine areas of the Wasatch. Great place to climb when it’s too hot everywhere else.

South Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueCenter Thumb 5.9

The Center Thumb route links weaknesses and ascends crack systems shooting straight up the middle of a pillar formation in the heart of the Cirque. It is one of the best 5.9 routes in the Wasatch.

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonDoggystyle 5.10c

Doggystyle is a fun new route that was put up in 2005. It’s a varied and enjoyable cruise up mostly well protected slabs, with the occasional flake and crack.

Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood CanyonEast Dihedrals 5.6

This moderate route follows the long and obvious right facing dihedral that goes almost to the top of the face. Combine with Steort’s Ridge and Jig’s Up for a full day.

Sundial Peak, Big Cottonwood CanyonEleventh Hour 5.8

Eleventh Hour is one of the best moderate alpine routes in the Wasatch. It requires a relatively long approach, but offers great climbing in an amazing alpine setting. Expect killer exposure, tricky protection, and cool mountain views.

Devil's Castle, Little Cottonwood CanyonHorns of Satan 5.10b

Horns of Satan is a fun alpine climb located in the heart of Alta ski area. Mostly bolted, great position, and superb exposure on the 7th pitch makes this one a perfect outing on a hot summer day.

Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood CanyonJig's Up 5.6

A great variation after climbing the first pitch of Steort’s Ridge. It mostly follows parallel sided cracks on clean rock. Great alternative if Steort’s Ridge is too busy.

Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak CirqueLowe Route 5.8

The Lowe Route is an ultra classic climb, and a must-do if it’s your first time in the Cirque. It is certainly the best 5.8 in the cirque, and possibly the Wasatch. Superb crack climbing, remarkable exposure and a hard to beat top-out!

Includes: The Answer (5.8) and Pika Paradise (5.8)

Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueThe Open Book 5.7

This is Lone Peak’s easiest route. It follows a long continuous corner and ascends flared cracks that can feel a bit awkward at times. The climbing is fun and varied, and remains fairly sustained throughout.

JHCOB Wall, Big Cottonwood CanyonOutside Corner 5.7

This varied climb has a super quick approach, comfy belays, and a straightforward descent. Very popular, it can feel a little spicy for the grade, with a few committing moves and big exposure for the grade.

Includes: Second East Face (5.7)

Pentapitch Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonPentapitch 5.8

Pentapitch is a Little Cottonwood classic moderate climb featuring mostly thin finger cracks and slabs on perfect, clean rock. The exciting last pitch is not to be missed, with its committing moves and great exposure!

Includes: Sasquatch (5.9+), Japanese Terraces (5.8), and variations up to 5.11a

Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak CirquePika Paradise 5.8

A short quality route located on the far right side of the Question Mark Wall ledge. It offers perfect hand jams in a long, continuous corner. Great alternative if the Lowe Route is busy, if the weather is uncertain, or to round-out your day

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonPrecious Lost 5.10a

Precious Lost is a fun new adventurous route featuring several great slab sections, an ever-widening crack pitch, a roof crux, and an exposed finish over wild flakes.

Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonSchoolroom 5.6

Schoolroom is a very popular moderate climb with an old-school feel. It’s also a first multi-pitch lead for many aspiring trad climbers. The rock is solid, the pro is mostly good, and the belay ledges are comfortable.

Includes: Schoolroom West (5.7), Bushwhack Crack (5.8), and variations up to 5.9

Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonSchoolroom West 5.7

Schoolroom West offers even more quality climbing than the standard Schoolroom. This is a great, fun route that offers a more direct and steeper line going straight up the buttress.

The Thumb, Little Cottonwood CanyonS-Crack 5.12a (5.8 C1)

This LCC old school classic will take you directly up to the Upper Thumb routes. Although it is hard to free completely, it can be done as a 5.8 with a short bit of aid, and contains great chimney, crack and groove sections

The Thumb, Little Cottonwood CanyonS-Direct 5.9+R

This route tackles the best slab section on the Upper Thumb. A must-do slab route on excellent rock offering tremendous exposure and position.

JHCOB Wall, Big Cottonwood CanyonSecond East Face 5.7

This is a great little climb for the moderate leader. It has a lot of clean thin hands and finger cracks on perfect quartzite. If you liked the feeling and exposure of the arête pitch on Steort’s Ridge, you’ll love this route.

The Thumb, Little Cottonwood CanyonSpring Fever 5.10a

Another great route on the Upper Thumb! While it is a rated a little harder than S-direct, it is better protected and the runout sections are on easy ground. Recently re-bolted too!

The Thumb, Little Cottonwood CanyonStandard Thumb 5.7

The Thumb is the biggest buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and offers many possibilities and variations. This route follows chimney systems and slabs up to an amazing summit block, and is one of the longest routes in the canyon.

Includes: Indecent Exposure (5.7) to Standard Thumb finish (5.7)

Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood CanyonSteort's Ridge 5.6

This is a great area for beginner and low level trad climbers. It is the site of choice if you want to bring someone on their first multi-pitch climb, or if you want to lead your first multi-pitch trad route!

Includes: Jig's Up (5.6) and East Dihedrals (5.6)

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonStiffler's Mom 5.11a

This neo-classic is one of the best multi-pitch climbs in LCC. Stiffler's Mom is a superb mix route that requires a wide variety of climbing styles. Expect fun technical slabs, sweet finger and hand cracks, cool arêtes and an exciting pumpy roof.

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonSumatra 5.10b

Sumatra is located just left of Precious Lost and actually shares the same great 1st pitch. It is another fun route that features excellent slab and dike climbing sections.

Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonTingey's Terror 5.7

A great route with a little bit of everything and many possible variations. Fun climbing on smooth slabs, finger cracks, and a few runout sections that will keep you focused.

Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood CanyonTingey's Torture 5.8

This fine route continues up for 3 more pitches after climbing Tingey’s Terror. Many variations also exist on the upper pitches.

Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueTriple Overhangs 5.10a

Triple Overhangs is a fantastic route that follows cracks and corners up to a series of three roofs on the 4th pitch. These roofs provide amazing exposure and exquisite position on perfect granite.

Summit Wall, Lone Peak CirqueVertical Smile 5.10a

This is a quality, full value route that shouldn’t be missed if you’re visiting the Cirque. Although rated 5.10a like Triple Overhang, it is more committing, with technical stemming, thin pro, and can feel slightly runout in sections.

Mount OlympusWest Slabs 5.5

The West Slabs are located on Mount Olympus, an impressive peak just above Salt Lake City. This climb takes the center of the huge face and provides one of the longest moderate adventures found in the Wasatch.