Stiffler's Mom 5.11a
Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
This newer route is quickly becoming one of the best multi-pitch climbs in LCC. Stiffler’s Mom is a super fun mix route characterized by a wide variety of climbing styles. You’ll be climbing on fun technical slabs, perfect finger and hand cracks, cool arêtes and exciting, pumpy roofs. Besides one short 5.11a move, the rest of the route feels more like a 5.10 climb overall, with a few easier pitches. But it also has some more difficult variations, allowing for more sustained climbing possibilities if you’re looking for more 5.11 climbing. Either way, you won’t be disappointed.
The rock on Stiffler’s Mom is excellent for the most part, except for a few dirty sections. Overall, the climbing feels very safe, with many bolts placed where you need them, and solid natural protection. Stiffler’s Mom gets lots of shade, especially in the afternoon, so it’s a good choice on a hot day.
If you wish to bump the grades up and make the route feel a little harder, the first pitch variation One Time at Band Camp (5.11b) provides a slick bolted slab pitch with hard smearing and balancy moves, which is highly recommended. Then, on the third pitch, head left on the excellent Stiffler's Stiffy (5.11b), and follow the bolt line for hard laybacks and more tenuous smearing.
After climbing Stiffler’s Mom, it is possible to climb another route in the area if you still have time. Precious Lost (5.10a), Sumatra (5.10b), Doggystyle (5.10c) are all located just minutes away and can easily be climbed if you want to extend your day. If you are looking for an easier route, or want to climb some quality single pitch routes, walk to the west to the base of Pentapitch/Sasquatch (5.8/5.9+), Neuromancer (5.11a), or Endless Torment (5.10b).
If you are looking for other great long routes at a similar grade, climb Arm and Hammer (5.11c or 5.10a A0). For a slightly more alpine feel, drive up to Alta and climb the Black Streak (5.10b) or Horns of Satan (5.10b). If you can make it to Lone Peak Cirque, make sure to try Vertical Smile (5.10a) or Triple Overhangs (5.10a), which are both excellent.