Stiffler's Mom, Wasatch Range Route Photo

Stiffler's Mom 5.11a

Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon

  • Stiffler's Mom Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Stiffler's Mom First AscentTyler Phillips, Robbie Colbert, Luke Douglas, 2004
  • Stiffler's Mom Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 7
  • Stiffler's Mom Approach TimeApproach Time: 15-20 minutes
  • Stiffler's Mom Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 3-5 hours
  • Stiffler's Mom Descent timeDescent Time: 1 hour to base
  • Stiffler's Mom Sun ExposureSun exposure: Mostly shade
  • About the Climb

    This newer route is quickly becoming one of the best multi-pitch climbs in LCC. Stiffler’s Mom is a super fun mix route characterized by a wide variety of climbing styles. You’ll be climbing on fun technical slabs, perfect finger and hand cracks, cool arêtes and exciting, pumpy roofs. Besides one short 5.11a move, the rest of the route feels more like a 5.10 climb overall, with a few easier pitches. But it also has some more difficult variations, allowing for more sustained climbing possibilities if you’re looking for more 5.11 climbing. Either way, you won’t be disappointed.

    The rock on Stiffler’s Mom is excellent for the most part, except for a few dirty sections. Overall, the climbing feels very safe, with many bolts placed where you need them, and solid natural protection. Stiffler’s Mom gets lots of shade, especially in the afternoon, so it’s a good choice on a hot day.

    Stiffler's Mom (Wasatch Range) GearLoopTopo {Stiffler's Mom (Wasatch Range) GearLoopTopo

    Low Resolution GearLoopTopo Preview

    Minimum order of 3 GearLoopTopos

    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Stiffler's Mom contains all the information you need for the climb and the variations, starting from Little Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake City.

    Possible Combinations

    If you wish to bump the grades up and make the route feel a little harder, the first pitch variation One Time at Band Camp (5.11b) provides a slick bolted slab pitch with hard smearing and balancy moves, which is highly recommended. Then, on the third pitch, head left on the excellent Stiffler's Stiffy (5.11b), and follow the bolt line for hard laybacks and more tenuous smearing.

    After climbing Stiffler’s Mom, it is possible to climb another route in the area if you still have time. Precious Lost (5.10a), Sumatra (5.10b), Doggystyle (5.10c) are all located just minutes away and can easily be climbed if you want to extend your day. If you are looking for an easier route, or want to climb some quality single pitch routes, walk to the west to the base of Pentapitch/Sasquatch (5.8/5.9+), Neuromancer (5.11a), or Endless Torment (5.10b).

    Similar Climbs

    If you are looking for other great long routes at a similar grade, climb Arm and Hammer (5.11c or 5.10a A0). For a slightly more alpine feel, drive up to Alta and climb the Black Streak (5.10b) or Horns of Satan (5.10b). If you can make it to Lone Peak Cirque, make sure to try Vertical Smile (5.10a) or Triple Overhangs (5.10a), which are both excellent.

    Download the Stiffler's Mom PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

    version 2.3.2