Tingey's Terror 5.7 & Tingey's Torture 5.8
Includes Tingey's Terror (5.7) and Tingey's Torture (5.8)
Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
Tingey's Terror to Tingey's Torture is a combination of 3 routes: Tarzan (5.10a), which is only the first pitch. The 5.10a face section here can easily be by-passed using a crack on the right, bringing the rating down to 5.7. From here, Tingey’s Terror (5.7) continues for 3 pitches, and takes you up a beautifully exposed slab and cracks of all sizes, where many variations are possible. Tingey’s Torture (5.8) finishes things up with 3 more quality pitches, and takes you to the top of the buttress. Although it is possible to walk-off from the middle part of the route, when all combined together, these routes deliver more than 800 feet of exciting climbing on excellent granite.
Many options and variations exist along the way, making this route one of the longest moderates in the Wasatch. Tingey’s Torture (5.8) offers fantastic views of LCC and is usually not crowded. Because of all the possible variations, it will be easy to pass another party if you have too.
Overall, the route is very interesting and varied. Slab and crack sections are interspersed all along the way and provide a good blend of trad mixed with bolts. Slabs, finger cracks, wide cracks and a few runout sections will keep you focused the whole way, and every pitch feels different.
Almost every pitch has at least one variation, allowing for endless possible variations. All the variations are clearly featured on our GearLoopTopo. In general, the 5.10a variations are well protected and usually consist of a single move at the grade, making it a good choice for 5.9 leaders who want to push the grade.
Another great combination is to climb The Flakes (5.10b) on the way down if rappelling from the top (bring one #4 cam), since you'll be rappelling right next to it.
If you simply want to add a few more pitches to your day, this area also contains many high quality short routes. If Tingey’s Terror is busy, warm-up on the all time classics Beckey's Wall (5.7), or Satan's Corner (5.8), located just to the left. Many other quality routes can also be found at the Dihedrals Area just around the corner.