Horns of Satan 5.10b
Devil's Castle, Little Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
Horns of Satan is a fun alpine climb located in one of the most beautiful areas of the Wasatch range. The rock can be loose in sections, so be ready to encounter dirty sections, or even a mountain goat; this is high alpine climbing! This route is mostly bolted, offers great position, and rewards you with superb exposure on the 7th pitch.
Horns of Satan is located on an uninspiring looking dark cliff in the heart of the famous Alta ski area. Beware of fast moving afternoon thunderstorms and dress appropriately, you’ll be climbing above 10000’. In early season, the road leading up to the campground might be closed (usually open by 4th of July), so be prepared to add about 45 to 60 minutes to the approach. Also, an ice axe, boots and crampons can come in handy if a lot of snow is still covering the base. Consider climbing something else if someone’s already on the route (the neighboring Black Streak (5.10b) is an excellent alternative). Helmets are mandatory as rockfall potential is a constant threat, so be careful. The base of this route is prone to rockfall, so don't hang out at the base.
If you’re planning on camping in the area, get a site at the Albion campground. Great hiking trails, lakes, peaks and ridges are easily accessible from here. Please stay on trail and don’t step on the fragile vegetation.
Several other climbs have been put up on Devil's Castle in recent years. If you climb fast enough, it is possible to combine Horns of Satan with another route to make it a full day. Combine with The Black Streak (5.10b), Evil Eye (5.11a) or Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b) for a similar adventure.
If you run out of time, or don't feel like getting on another multi-pitch, you should check out the single pitch routes at Cecret Lake. Several small crags can be found in the area around the lake.
If you are looking for multi-pitch climbs at a similar grade, and in a similar setting, you should try Arm and Hammer (5.10a A0), Stiffler's Mom (5.11a), Precious Lost (5.10a), Triple Overhangs (5.10a) or Vertical Smile (5.10a).