Apron, The Chief
About the Climb
Diedre might be the most famous and popular moderate multi-pitch route in Squamish, and it's for a good reason. The route follows an amazing layback corner for several pitches, which will keep you smiling all the way to the top. The corner starts quite steep with sustained climbing, and although the angle decreases near the top, the climbing remains consistently pleasant. Diedre finishes on the Broadway Ledge, and the final moves just below the ledge can sometimes be wet from seepage after periods of rain.
Reaching the start of Diedre involves a little bit of scrambling and route finding. If it is your first time on the Apron, it is wise to have a close look at your approach route from the Apron parking.
It is rare not to see a party on Diedre, and your best strategy is to get up real early, or plan to climb late in the afternoon. The belays are all bolted, but the stances are not very comfortable, so if you are behind another party, just keep some distance. Once in the corner, it is not easy to pass other parties.
Because of the popularity of Diedre, it is wise to prepare for alternatives in case the line is too long. Banana Peel (5.8) starts from the same location and only has a short 5.8 crux, but is also very popular. Another great climb starting from the same location is Over the Rainbow (5.10a), which is mainly a slab climb and thus very different from Diedre. On the approach to Diedre, you'll also pass Snake (5.9) which is also a great alternative if Diedre is too busy.
The Apron has a high density of routes, so there are plenty of options for combining Diedre with another route. Instead of hiking and scrambling up to the Diedre Ledge you can climb The Bottom Line (5.9), which is a nice short slab route that starts directly from the trail along the base of the Apron. The Bottom Line (5.9) finishes at the right end of the Diedre Ledge, from where it is very easy to reach the start of Diedre.
From the top of Diedre there are various options to add more pitches of climbing to your day. The Boomstick Crack (5.7) starts only a few yards right of the top of Diedre and traverses along an amazingly thin flake. It can be climbed in two short pitches, or one long pitch, and afterwards you can rap back down to the Broadway Ledge. Alternatively, you can move left along Broadway, all the way to the northern end of the Apron, and climb the Memorial Crack (5.9).
From both the Boomstick Crack and the Memorial Crack, you can continue up and climb either the Squamish Buttress (5.10c) or Ultimate Everything (5.10b) all the way to the top of the Chief. If you combine The Bottom Line (5.9) with Diedre and some of these extensions, you can climb up to 20 pitches in total, from the base to the summit of the Chief.
Another option to climb several additional pitches is the Upper Apron. If you descend along the Broadway Ledge towards the forest, you will pass directly below the Upper Apron, which has several spicy slab routes. The sparse protection on these routes will likely test your slab climbing technique.
Many of the multi-pitch climbs in Squamish have some nice corner climbing and laybacking, but most are not as consistent and sustained as Diedre. Snake (5.9) follows a series of corners with lots of laybacking, and comes closest to Diedre in style and grade. If you liked Diedre, Snake can be your next step up.