Rock On, Squamish Route Photo

Rock On 5.10a

South Gully, The Chief

  • Rock On Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Rock On First AscentCroft, Johnstone, 1981 (p1), Milward, Campbell, 1983
  • Rock On Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 6
  • Rock On Approach TimeApproach Time: 20-25 minutes
  • Rock On Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 2½-3½ hours
  • Rock On Descent timeDescent Time: 45min-1h to parking
  • Rock On Sun ExposureSun exposure: Shade (some late morning sun)
  • About the Climb

    Rock On is one of the best multi-pitch climbs of its grade in Squamish and follows of series of corners with great hand and finger cracks. Most of the climbing is in the 5.8-5.9 range with two finger layback cruxes (5.10a).

    Rock On is located in the North Gully, just north of the Apron. The climb is mostly shaded in the morning and the afternoon, and only receives some sun around noon. This makes Rock On a perfect choice for warm days. However, it also means that the route dries slowly after it rains.

    Because it's such a quality route, Rock On sees a lot of traffic. There are not so many comparable alternatives closeby if there are other parties ahead of you. Your best bet will be to go back down the gully and do a route on the North Apron: St Vitus' Dance (5.9), Vector (5.9), or Calculus Crack (5.8).

    It is possible to rappel downRock On, but it is not recommended when there are parties below you. In that case, it is best to walk-off along the Broadway Ledge, or, even better, continue climbing to the top of the Chief.

    Rock On (Squamish) GearLoopTopo {Rock On (Squamish) GearLoopTopo

    Low Resolution GearLoopTopo Preview

    Minimum order of 3 GearLoopTopos

    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Rock On contains all the information you need for the climb, starting from the Apron Parking. It shows the rappel route and the descent along the Broadway Ledge.

    Possible Combinations

    From the top of Rock On, you can continue up on some slabs and through some trees to reach either Squamish Buttress (5.10c) or Ultimate Everything (5.10b) and climb all the way to the summit of the Chief.

    If you don't want to go to the summit of the Chief, but still want to climb another excellent pitch, you can rap down to Broadway Ledge and climb Memorial Crack (5.9). Alternatively, you can also climb or top-rope Dessert Dyke (5.10a) since its top anchors are only a few feet away after your rap onto Broadway Ledge.

    Another option to climb several additional pitches is the Upper Apron. If you descend along the Broadway Ledge towards the forest, you will pass directly below the Upper Apron, which has several spicy slab routes. The sparse protection on these routes will test your slab climbing technique and your nerves.

    Similar Climbs

    If you enjoy climbing corners with lots of hand and finger cracks and laybacking, you are in luck because many other options exist: Jungle Warfare (5.10a), Birds of Prey (5.10b), Squamish Buttress (5.10c), Peasant's Route (5.10c), The Great Game (5.10d), and of course The Grand Wall (5.11a A0).

    Download the Rock On PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

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