Snake, Squamish Route Photo

Snake 5.9

Apron, The Chief

  • Snake Sun ExposureRoute quality:
  • Snake First AscentDick Willmott, P. Botta, 1962
  • Snake Pitch InfoNumber of pitches: 6
  • Snake Approach TimeApproach Time: 5-10 minutes
  • Snake Climbing TimeClimbing Time: 2½ -3½ hours
  • Snake Descent timeDescent Time: 45 min to parking
  • Snake Sun ExposureSun exposure: Late morning until sunset
  • About the Climb

    Snake weaves its way to the top of the Apron linking a series of left facing corners, which are connected by nice traverses. The crux is a great hand traverse, that unfortunately can be wet from seepage after rain, but the pro is great. Although all the cruxes can be protected very well, there is a short runout dyke section with no pro on small positive holds.

    If there are other parties waiting to get on Snake, it's possible to continue on to the Diedre Ledge, and the start of many other popular routes: Diedre (5.8), Banana Peel (5.8) and Over the Rainbow (5.10a).

    Snake (Squamish) GearLoopTopo {Snake (Squamish) GearLoopTopo

    Low Resolution GearLoopTopo Preview

    Minimum order of 3 GearLoopTopos

    The GearLoopTopo

    Our GearLoopTopo for Snake contains all the information you need for the climb, starting from the Apron Parking. In addition to the topo for Snake, our GearLoopTopo also includes the topo for Dessert Dyke (5.10a), Karen's Math (5.10b), and Memorial Crack (5.9).

    Possible Combinations

    There are many options if you're looking to add one or more pitches to your day on the rock. From the top of Snake you can climb Dessert Dyke (5.10a), a one pitch route that tops out on the Broadway. Climbing this route means that you'll avoid scrambling up the 3rd class gully to reach the Broadway Ledge. Another great short climb is Karen's Math (5.10b), which starts a few feet from the start of the 3rd class gully. The route climbs an amazing super thin flake and ends at Memorial Ledge. From Memorial Ledge, you can climb Memorial Crack (5.9) to add yet another pitch. Memorial Crack can also be reached by scrambling up the 3rd class gully, and moving left onto Memorial Ledge just as you reach Broadway.

    From the top of Memorial Crack, it's possible to continue up on slabs and through trees to reach either Squamish Buttress (5.10c) or Ultimate Everything (5.10b) and climb all the way to the summit of the Chief. If you want to reach the summit of the Chief, but there is a line to get onto Memorial Crack, move left along Broadway and climb Boomstick Crack (5.7) in order to continue up.

    Another option is to climb several additional pitches on the Upper Apron. If you descend along the Broadway Ledge towards the forest, you will pass directly below the Upper Apron, which has several spicy slab routes. The protection on these routes is sparse and will certainly test your slab climbing technique as well as your nerves.

    Similar Climbs

    If you like the corner climbing on Snake, you should try some of the following climbs which all have some memorable corners with great laybacking: Diedre (5.8), Rock On (5.10a), Split Pillar (5.10b), Squamish Buttress (5.10c), the Great Game (5.10d), and the Grand Wall (5.11a).

    Download the Snake PDF file or visit the PDF Center.

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