Brujas Brew 5.9
Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon
About the Climb
Bruja's Brew is not as famous as its popular neighbors Lotta Balls (5.8) and Black Magic (5.8), but it is an excellent route nonetheless. While it only has one 5.9 pitch, it still has some interesting climbing on every pitch. The first pitch is the best and is spicy for the grade, the second is easier but a bit runout, and the last has an interesting zig zag traverse.
Most people don't hike in just to climb Bruja's Brew, but if you're here to climb Lotta Balls, this route makes a nice addition to fill your day. All the climbs in the area are relatively short, so you can squeeze a few in a day.
If you already climbed Lotta Balls (5.8) and Black Magic (5.8), you should do Bruja's Brew from start to finish. If you have limited time, a great combination is to start with the first roof pitch of Bruja's Brew, and join Black Magic anywhere from the first to the second belay. This way you avoid the runout second pitch and the traverse on the third pitch.
You can also join Lotta Balls at the first belay, and climb the second money pitch of that route. Note that both Lotta Balls and Black Magic have excellent first pitches by themselves.
All three of these climbs are worthy routes by themselves and are relatively short, so you can squeeze two or maybe all of them in a day. If you do so and want to start with the best climb, start with Lotta Balls, then do Black Magic, and finish with Bruja's Brew.
Another nice short climb located just on the other side of the bowl is Rising Moons 5.5R. Although it is an easier route, the climbing will keep your attention from start to finish because of the limited pro options. Overall, the climbing is super fun and feels very secure.
In addition to the short multipitch routes, the walls near the bowl have many great single pitch climbs too.
The neighboring climbs Lotta Balls (5.8) and Black Magic (5.8) provide awesome climbing at a similar grade and are of similar length, although they don't have any climbing as spicy as the first pitch of Bruja's Brew.
For more great climbing at a similar grade and length you should check out Refried Brains (5.9) in Black Velvet Canyon, which has a great mix of face and crack climbing. For a longer climb you can go for Ginger Cracks (5.9) in Juniper Canyon, which is mainly 5.8 climbing with a short, bolt protected 5.9 move.
If you are looking for an even longer route at a similar grade, you should consider Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+) and Epinephrine (5.9), both offering nice varied climbing with comfy ledges at almost every belay.