Black Orpheus 5.9+
Black Arch Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
About the Climb
Black Orpheus is an enjoyable Red Rocks classic with an alpine feeling. It is a long, adventurous climb with a long descent. The bottom and top sections of the route have huge corner systems with pitches full of great climbing. The middle section has a lot of easier climbing, with many options. The crux is a short 5.10a move up a thin crack.
The Painted Bowl descent is fairly long and can take as long as 4 hours, or as little as 2.5 hours. However, the Painted bowl area is very scenic and the varied and enjoyable nature of the descent makes it seem to go fast.
Black Orpheus is a long route, so you'll have to climb lightning fast if you want to do another route. But if you are, there are several routes in the Painted Bowl/Eagle Wall area that can be climbed on your way down. For example, Eagle Dance (5.10c, A0) on Eagle Wall is a bit more difficult than Black Orpheus. The route has a short bolt ladder, but you can climb the 5 pitches below the aid section and rappel back down if you want. In this case the climbing is maximum 5.10b with well protected cruxes.
If you are looking for routes with a similar grade, length and commitment, you should climb Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) all the way to the top of Black Velvet peak. However, Dream of Wild Turkeys has more face climbing on crimpers than Black Orpheus. The super classic Epinephrine (5.9) is even longer and is a most do. Although similar in grade, the crux is a 3 pitch chimney section!
Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+) in Ice Box Canyon is similar in grade and length. It is a nice and varied climb with a big ledge at almost every belay. This route deserves to be climbed more and can get hot despite its name.