Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper Canyon
About the Climb
Geronimo is a short, sunny and fun route with good climbing on lots of jugs. The climb has good exposure, long pitches and comfortable ledges are found at most belays. The rap route on Geronimo used to have a bad reputation, but it's actually not so bad, thanks to some bolted anchors. However, there are lots of features and your ropes can get stuck, so pay attention to your rope handling.
Geronimo is quite popular, and you are unlikely to have the climb to yourselves. However, because the rappel route on Geronimo is to the right of the actual climb, and most of the belay ledge are spacious, other parties are not too much of a problem.
The start of Geronimo can be a hard to find. As you get closer to the wall, the start of the climb gets hidden behind a small arete. Try to locate the climb from a distance before the final part of the approach. Climbers wandering around in this area, looking at all the walls, are usually searching for Geronimo.
Because Geronimo is a relatively short route, you'll easily have enough time to climb another route in the area. The best option, and best climb close by, is Olive Oil (5.7). However, Olive Oil can be pretty busy, so you'll need luck or an early start to avoid the line. If you'll be climbing both routes, it's wise to start with Geronimo first, and then go for Olive Oil.
Another option is Myster Z (5.7), which is in the larger gully to the South of Geronimo. Myster Z has a great first pitch, but the top part only offers average quality climbing. Anyway, climbing Myster Z is a nice way to reach the Brownstone Wall, because you avoid the long hike to that wall. We recommend combining Myster Z with Armatron (5.9) for a great day of climbing.
Alternatively, you can also walk to Pine Creek Canyon after climbing Geronimo, which takes about 20-30 minutes. Mescalito and Brass Wall have many shorter classics: Cat in the Hat (5.6), Cookie Monster (5.7), Birdland (5.7+), or Dark Shadows (5.8).
For similar climbs with lots of face climbing at a similar grade try Johnny Vegas (5.7) or Birdland (5.7+). Johnny Vegas is almost pure face climbing and can feel a bit runout. Birdland has great face climbing and a bit more crack climbing than Geronimo.
At a slightly higher grade, you can try the ultra-classic Crimson Chrysalis (5.8), which has many pitches of sustained and steep face climbing. However, it is a really popular climb, so plan accordingly.
If you are looking for a full day of climbing at a similar grade you should definitively consider climbing Solar Slab (5.6).