Unimpeachable Groping 5.10b
Includes Power Failure (5.10b)
Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon
About the Climb
Unimpeachable Groping is a beautiful, straightforward and generously bolted multipitch sport route up steep white and varnished rock. It has great exposure, sustained face climbing and even a cool roof problem. Almost every single pitch has a bit of 5.10 climbing on very well bolt protected rock. The route can be climbed in as much as 8 pitches or as few as 5, depending which anchor you use and if you decide to go to the top of Ginger Buttress or not.
This is a multi-pitch sport climb and it's not very committing. It's great for sport climbers who want to get some exposure, or for trad climbers who just want to clip bolts and cruise up at a faster pace. Climb this route in the afternoon if you want to be in the shade.
Power Failure (5.10b), located just left of Unimpeachable Groping, is a great but short route that ascends the right side of the obvious large water streak. It has good rock quality and a nice variety to it, mixing bolts and gear on face, cracks and corners. This is a great late afternoon climb if you're looking for shade. It’s easy for the grade (well protected, bolted crux) and is great for climbers who want to break into easy 5.10 trad. It feels more like a 5.9 climb with the occasional and short 5.10 move. Climbing these two routes back to back will deliver a fantastic day of climbing.
Depending on the time and energy you have left, you can combine Unimpeachable Groping with either of it's two neighbors Power Failure or Ginger Cracks (5.9). Power Failure is short and less sustained than Unimpeachable Groping and is a great warm-up route to start the day. Ginger Cracks (5.9) is easier but also longer. The bottom 4 pitches have bolted anchors, so you can rappel from any of these anchors.
Alternatively, you can consider combining with Crimson Chrysalis (5.8), located just around the corner only a few minutes away. Note that Crimson Chrysalis is very popular and usually busy, and might not be very time efficient if you also want to climb Unimpeachable Groping.
The Black Velvet Wall in Black Velvet Canyon has many great classics with lots of face climbing on edges. The climbs that have the most face climbing are Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) and Sour Mash (5.10a). Also check Sick for Toys (5.10d), with a stellar mix of slab, bolts and thin cracks. Give this one a try, you won't be disapointed.
The Eagle Wall in Oak Creek Canyon is home to 2 amazing ultra classic climbs with lots of face and crack climbing. Eagle Dance (5.10c, A0) is only slightly more difficult than Unimpeachable Groping. This route has a short bolt ladder, but you can climb the 5 pitches below the aid section and rappel back down if you want. Another option is the famous Levitation 29 (5.11c), although this is quite a step up from Unimpeachable Groping.
The Calico Hills at the beginning of the loop road have many crags with many great single pitch routes to work on your face climing skills on small edges.